14.10.2005 - Mother Buttress & Band Of Gypsies
Three days of perfect sun, sandstone and screaming (at redpoint failures). Friday Adam and I battled hard on World Party at Taipan. Niether of us ticked out respective project pitches unfortunately. Saturday we did a few new routes at Buandik area and then swung a few laps at The Gallery. Malcolm did the coveted second ascent of Seven Diamond Experience (25). On sunday a big posse (more than 10 climbers!) spent the day at Band Of Gypsies, a new crag just north of Red Rocks. Several new routes were done including the 'last great crack' of the Grampians, the amazing Grand Oral Disseminator (27).
Mother Buttress, Buandik Area, Victoria Ranges, Grampians
* Blunted Enthusiasm 25m 20 (mixed)
Turtle shell wall climbing. A runout sport route or a very safe mixed climb. Starts 5m left of Split Decision. Up easy slab to horizontal. Balance up seam (UB) and then blast up jugs to stance. Take the right bolted line past a further three UB?s to top. A limited selection of large wires and medium cams supplement the five bolts. Rap off double UBs above Split Decision. FFA Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, Mark Gould & Boudewijn Docter 15.10.2005
Early Riser 25m 19 (mixed)
Neil had this cleaned and bolted before anyone else got out of bed. An slightly easier trad finish to Blunted Enthusiasm. After the second UB take the left line (RB) to thin crack. Finish up well protected wall about 2m left of Blunted Enthusiasm. FFA Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert 15.10.2005
Band Of Gypsies (Red Rocks), Victoria Range, Grampians
** Grand Oral Disseminator 25m 27 (mixed)
One of the best crack lines in the Grampians. Stared at for years by various suitors ? but no one had dared to actually rope up. Malcolm eventually put the climb out of its misery. The desperate right-leading diagonal on smooth orange rock. Footholds are minimal. All trad apart from lone FH at double knee bar stance at flakes widest point. Watch for skating cams and feet as the rock is very slick. Walk off for descent. FFA Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert 16.10.2005
Squeezed Out 13m 21 (mixed)
The bolted off-width corner/crack 5m left of Private Parts. Can be laybacked and bridged at about grade 25 (as done by first ascentist!). It is grade 21 if you enjoy thrutching inside deep cracks with fist stacks. Two BR?s and several #5 cams are required. Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, James Pfrunder & Malcolm Matheson 16.10.2005
Dutch Courage 18m 20 (trad)
Steep right facing corner 5m right of Crazy Like a Fox. Layback, jam and chimney - this route has everything. Up the initial corner crack, to get established in the chimney, wriggle up this with difficulty. Then right round the arête, finishing up the right hand chimney. Trad belay, then easy scramble to the slings at the top of Crazy Like A Fox. FFA Mark Gould & Boudewijn Docter 16.10.2005
Read MoreMother Buttress, Buandik Area, Victoria Ranges, Grampians
* Blunted Enthusiasm 25m 20 (mixed)
Turtle shell wall climbing. A runout sport route or a very safe mixed climb. Starts 5m left of Split Decision. Up easy slab to horizontal. Balance up seam (UB) and then blast up jugs to stance. Take the right bolted line past a further three UB?s to top. A limited selection of large wires and medium cams supplement the five bolts. Rap off double UBs above Split Decision. FFA Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, Mark Gould & Boudewijn Docter 15.10.2005
Early Riser 25m 19 (mixed)
Neil had this cleaned and bolted before anyone else got out of bed. An slightly easier trad finish to Blunted Enthusiasm. After the second UB take the left line (RB) to thin crack. Finish up well protected wall about 2m left of Blunted Enthusiasm. FFA Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert 15.10.2005
Band Of Gypsies (Red Rocks), Victoria Range, Grampians
** Grand Oral Disseminator 25m 27 (mixed)
One of the best crack lines in the Grampians. Stared at for years by various suitors ? but no one had dared to actually rope up. Malcolm eventually put the climb out of its misery. The desperate right-leading diagonal on smooth orange rock. Footholds are minimal. All trad apart from lone FH at double knee bar stance at flakes widest point. Watch for skating cams and feet as the rock is very slick. Walk off for descent. FFA Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert 16.10.2005
Squeezed Out 13m 21 (mixed)
The bolted off-width corner/crack 5m left of Private Parts. Can be laybacked and bridged at about grade 25 (as done by first ascentist!). It is grade 21 if you enjoy thrutching inside deep cracks with fist stacks. Two BR?s and several #5 cams are required. Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert, James Pfrunder & Malcolm Matheson 16.10.2005
Dutch Courage 18m 20 (trad)
Steep right facing corner 5m right of Crazy Like a Fox. Layback, jam and chimney - this route has everything. Up the initial corner crack, to get established in the chimney, wriggle up this with difficulty. Then right round the arête, finishing up the right hand chimney. Trad belay, then easy scramble to the slings at the top of Crazy Like A Fox. FFA Mark Gould & Boudewijn Docter 16.10.2005
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